Rachie goes to school

I spent Tuesday afternoon in the KwaMashu township with the inspirational Siyanda Msomi, artist and teacher at the Mzuvele High School. Siyanda had persuaded (cajoled, railroaded - take your pick) a mixed group of teachers and students to talk with me about their understanding and experience of diversity in the township and the municipality. The school has 1190 pupils, from age 12 upwards, and average class sizes can be between 60 and 70, and is one of 23 schools that serve this large township.

I have to say that I found this session one of the most fascinating experiences of my trip yet. I have mainly relied on one to one contact interviews so far - which has its own advantages in terms of getting an in-depth reflection. But what I think i enjoyed most about the session at the school, was the dynamics of the room - how through the debate and questions, the shy students transformed into passionate and articulate young adults, who very much surprised themselves, and pleasantly surprised their teachers I think. It was the questions we stumbled on that provided the richest veins. When I asked about English in the classroom, one teachers spoke of the idea that one day it might be possible to provide Zulu language education, that engineers could pass a degree in their own language and not have to learn solely in English. The students were wide eyed at this suggestion: Zulu is for home and friends, English is the way to get a job. They simply couldn't imagine a world where their own language would be on a parr with other languages. It was a similar theme when I asked them about the city becoming more mixed. They spoke about working hard so "blacks can move into white areas', but when I asked would the townships ever become diverse, it was laughable. They couldn't imagine a white person ever wanting to live in township, so there was no need to think about if they would be welcomed. "Townships are black" said one person.

On the subject of 'township identity', one of the young people gave a fantastic insight: "where we live is cruel, so some people think you have to be cruel to fit in: that means bouncing school, not showing respect, for some kids its hard to go against their friends who think like that".

One of the teachers spoke of how hard it is to teach a class, sometimes 68 pupils, some hungry, and many (nearly 70% of kids in the school) who have only one surviving parent, or are being raised by a grandparent. Durban has one of the highest rates of HIV/Aids with 32% rate of infection. She said that the role models in the community can't make themselves role models, "what can you say to a child who says 'i know you, you stay by my house' ?"

For many of the teachers, the challenges of the high schools is the legacy of infrastructure. Schools in white or Indian areas might get the same levels of funding now - but they had investment previously, and have a level of infrastructure that Black township schools never had, so they have withstood the transition. "They are not 'better' schools, they are just starting from an easier place".

The school, however, is a key driver for optimism and change in the township. Through a partnership with a local church, part of the school grounds is now an allotment, which sells part of its harvest for profit which s reinvested in the community. The students also undertake numerous educational project that aim to benefit the community. This is where the real benefit of having local teachers is seen. I asked was it hard to find people in the community to help with project and the answer was 'of course not, it is our community, these are our neighbours, we know them and they know us'.

River City, Music City, Windy City

So, I realise I'm way behind on my blogging. There's a few that I have started and will finish. The problem has been I've been having amazing days, and then starting to write at night... And falling asleep. So, nothing changes! But here I am, checked in at Chicago O'Hare, all set for S Africa, and I can't believe nearly three weeks in America have gone by so quickly.

In the last few weeks I've tried to resist dipping in to broad generalisations and assumptions when people have asked me for them. (Are people in Britain less receptive to immigration than in America? Are they more or less political? Are people more likely to get involved in volunteering? These are all questions I've evaded giving any opinion on, just today. ) But I'm tempted to indulge in a little personal reflection just now. And as it's late at night you all understand, this is just me riffing and not necessarily espousing any fully formed opinions.

Things I Think I've Learned From Using American Public Transport:
- Distance is measured in the time it takes to drive there. Anything less than a 40 minute drive is considered nearby. I learned that more than once by attempting to follow directions that were just 5 minutes away. (5 minutes down the fecking freeway!)
- You can sue anyone for anything but if you trip on crappy pavements, it's your own risk.
- Taking the bus is considered a quaint but life threatening activity by those who own cars, as they've seemingly never done this.
- Taking the bus is considered a quaint and life affirming activity if you're dealing with mental health issues. My personal favourite was a guy who had a double sided picture: one a bootlicious lady, booty very much in the foreground; on the other, President Obama smiling somewhat demurely. He made anyone who sat next to him choose a side, and then laughed in the face of that person, seemingly with the same gusto whichever side was chosen.
- Taking the bus is often a great way to see how racially divided some parts of cities are. I was frequently the only white person on the bus in some areas. (I only caused a stir once, the day the bus was really busy, and I lost my grip on the handrail, and had to grab hold of a substantial lady to not fall over. My inner Brit emerged as I profusely apologised, and the entire bus united and cracked up laughing.)
- I now know the reason why taking a greyhound bus is often listed on those list of Things To Do Before You Die.

Things I Think I've Learned from Watching American TV:
- They have the same standard of advertising as the UK when it comes to offering to buy your unwanted gold.
- They genuinely do have home made commercials by used car salesmen, calling themselves "Honest Chuck" and "Dan Your Used Car Man". This is not just something they make up for bad TV cop shows.
- There is a genuine obsession with the Michael Jackson's doctor trial, which takes up over half the nightly news on every channel I tried.
- The direct marketing of prescription drugs to the public seems to me to be as insane as it is dangerous. To my ears, the vast list of side effects that have to be read out by law would be enough to stop me being tempted. (One of my favourite drugs to be advertised for suspected asthma had the side effect that "in rare cases, leads to bad judgement". Really?I'd love to know how that came about!) But then I realised that it's feeding an addiction. In much the same was as smokers are immune to cigarette packet warnings that scare the bejeezus out of non smokers; the lengthy side effects of prescription drugs can be ignored when the overriding addition of consumerist health care is being sold, in much the same way as luxury goods. "You deserve better health" "Don't trust a doctor with the health of your child, ask them for this drug now."

And things I've learned about me...

I always want to write than i have time for. Sorry! The plane's about to board. See you in South Africa!

Oh for to be in Americana...

On Friday 7th, I got to go out and spend the morning in the South end of the city at the Americana Community Center. Founder and director Eduardo Mansilla was a fantastic host. Hailing himself from Argentina, he speaks honestly about how he became a "voice" for internationals in Louisville in the late 80s and 90s, but almost before he starts the tour of the building he tells me that he's starting to be too easy and too usual a suspect now and that he's encouraging the diverse voices of newer internationals to stand up and be counted.

Out the back of the building is an organic community allotment. Developed to encourage healthy eating and promote mental health, the garden is also something of a cultural map, showing the diversity of dietary preferences being cultivated by centre users from 79 different countries, or 80 if you include those US born citizens who are increasingly using the centre's resources to develop their skills and attain the GED - the recognised High School equivalency exam.

Eduardo explains the name Americana comes not from the nostalgic evocation of latter day America, but rather the name of the cheap rental apartment block many S Asian immigrants first lived in in the area. An influx that weren't exactly welcomed with open arms. twenty some years in though, and it seems that the international dimension of the neighbourhood is starting to become one of its key strengths, and the centre is quite possibly something unique in Louisville in is cross cultural approach.

English and GED classes are open to refugees and immigrants equally and ensures a good cultural mix in any class. The first wave of Vietnamese migrants to Louisville were in sufficient numbers to hire translators and for services to develop a broad understanding of cultural differences. Now there is a much greater diversity of the countries that refugees come from, and a much greater diversity in their cultural needs and understanding of the US. Recent arrivals that had spent many years and some their whole lives in border or refugee camps, have had a much tougher journey and experienced more challenges to integration. The US system provides support for refugees for the first 90 days only, after which they are expected to be in employment. The Americana centre is therefore a vital lifeline for many new arrivals, and those still navigating the whiplash of culture shock some years in.

But what I most loved about the place which is a constant triumph of optimism over finance, is the approach it has to being a learning organisation. To adapting to new challenges, to trying new ways, and to seemingly never say die despite the many many challenge it operates with. And perhaps most of all, in country and an immigration system that allows only for integration, for Americana seems to be developing an newer American identity that is authentically cosmopolitan. And ever so subversively, it is engaging the city is seeing the image of the 'immigrant' in terms other than content to work minimum wage until the next generation can succeed.

Pearls of Wisdom

On 5th October I had the great privilege to meet with Dr. Tori Murden McLure, President of Louisville's Spalding University, trustee of the Muhammad Ali Center, author and not incidentally the only woman (and one of very few people at all) to row single handedly across the Atlantic Ocean. My own intimidation aside, Dr McLure was hugely fascinating both on the subject of her involvement with the Ali Center (at the personal request of Muhammad Ali) and the mission for Spalding, which she described as the "scrappy"' underdog of Louisville's tertiary education.

Set in the 13th poorest zip code of the US, Spalding began life as a log cabin school founded by Catholic nuns in 1814 to provide basic education and to develop the helping professions: teaching, nursing, social work. Today it still retains (small c) Catholic identity, and proactively uses this values-base to make sure that its 21st century incarnation still reaches those who most need education. 50% of its students are the first student in their household to attend university, and 75% are from economically challenged families. Spalding also employs an 'every student' policy, recognising that many students arrive not "university ready" and give additional support in English and other skills to try and prevent the huge drop out rate of first year students experienced by most universities in the US. Spading is also riding the wave of adapting campus life to be equally welcoming to mature students, a rapidly growing demographic.

Of her involvement with the Ali Center, she has a tone of great respect and fondness when she speaks of "Muhammad" and how she became involved. Muhammad Ali famously said to her before she set out on her record making journey, that she did not want to be known as the woman who "almost" rowed across the Atlantic Ocean. This mutually respectful relationship is probably one of the reasons she was asked to be a trustee Ali's of legacy in overseeing the Center project: something he always insisted should not just be a boxing museum. McLure outlined to me the original and still developing idea that the Center will become established on a world stage a centre for tolerance and healing, that it can develop conflict resolution techniques and understanding, and honour the journey of understanding the Muhammad Ali himself began.

I couldn't help thinking, that as Muhammad Ali's health sadly deteriorates, that he's chosen wisely to entrust someone like Dr McLure with developing his Center. Someone who doesn't let something like an ocean get in her way.

Occupied in Louisville

Occupy Louisville and Occupy Kentucky have both come out of the recent Occupy Wall Street movement. And today they came out onto the streets of Louisville. Maybe 150 or so people, at the times I saw it up close (lunch time and 5pm) each with a seemingly different agenda and reason for action. There were posters to "end the fed", to "bring our groups home", to "stop the war on workers", to "legalise same sex marriage" and incongruously to "eat the rich". But actually to me this very diversity of ideas and views that has been so mocked by US coverage (Fox news reporters have barely kept contempt for a "leaderless movement" out of their voices) is what is so interesting about it. I asked one young woman why she had turned out, why she had chosen this form of action, and she said that she was so fed up of not hearing her views being reflected accurately, by political representatives and by the media that she just wanted to come out and be heard. She said "I never thought I'd have to be so radical to put across what I think are moderate views: live fairly, don't hurt others, don't judge other people's lifestyles... I grew up thinking these were American values. Now you need corporate sponsorship just to get to speak to a representative and remind them why you voted for them. It's just so messed up".

After the rush hour traffic died down, and it was less about getting passing motorists to "honk their support", it was very interesting to see how the group themselves started to explore and talk about each others issues. Two almost stereo-typical Southern "good old boys" who just want their troops home started talking with a young, nose-pierced lesbian about why she wants the right to marry her girlfriend. Musicians played the kind of music that I'm pretty sure the "cool" college kids who were there wouldn't listen to in a year long iPod strike. And curiosity got the better of the more anarchic and they started listening to the reasons that had brought people out, rather than instructing them n how long they should stay. For me, that's where the power of "occupy" seems to be residing: not in the occupation itself, but how the people doing the occupying are chiding to spend their time. More than one person remarked to me that these are the conversations America needs to have - between it's citizens - and not just between it's politicians and the media.

It will be interesting to see how it all plays out.

Foundations of community

On Monday 3rd, I got to meet with the Louisville Community Foundation and its President and CEO, Susan Barry. Susan's charm and professionalism are entirely what you'd expect of a CEO who persuades donor's to trust her to invest almost $30m annually. But her understanding of the root causes of problems, and sheer willingness to work with others to tackle them is what truly impressed me. A fantastic staff team manages to work with individual big donors and make sure their money gets to where they want it, and go as far as possible, but there is also a huge emphasis on the fact that "everyone can be a philanthropist". It might stem from the roots of the Community Foundation, when a number of early leaders recognised that their own charitable donations couldn't go as far as when they were pooled with others. But I suspect it also comes from Susan's leadership: "Of course we couldn't do nearly as much as we do without our big donors, but that shouldn't exclude other people from engaging in and developing a sense of philanthropy, no matter how much it is they are giving."

And they must be doing something right, as charitable giving through the Community Foundation of Louisville is now back up to it's pre-recession levels. Obviously there are a variety of ways of giving in the US that maximise a tax incentive for individuals, that do not exist in the UK. Stock gifts and charitable checking funds - are just 2 ways i've learned about that many people choose to donate "easily" and "cheaply". But there seems also to be a growing sense of sophistication in how businesses and individuals are choosing their charitable donations, and the Community Foundation is leading in how to maximise the benefits of this. For example, using the substantial donations from the Yum group (which includes KFC) to alleviate food poverty or the money from Humana's contributions (a major health insurance provider) to support lifetime wellness projects, not only keeps the interest of major companies in reinforcing aspects of their brand identity, but also keeps the "charity" from being seen as an entirely one way street.

All this is hugely encouraging and the are definitely lessons to be learned for building a more overt culture of philanthropy back home. As ever though, my thoughts somehow go to the "unpopular" causes. I remember being 15 or so, and coming out of city centre cathedral after the annual good shepherd donations being brought in from Leeds schools. As we left, there were beggars asking for money, and the teacher said "Don't give to them. They aren't doing anything. They aren't playing music or even trying. They don't deserve it". Overhearing this, the old Irish priest, who was in the process of giving out coins accompanied by rapid blessings, said to her: "you're right of course, but it's easy to give to the "deserving poor". But i think true charity is giving to even those we think might not deserve it."

Art in the Hood

St James Court is a neighbourhood in Old Louisville, that houses a fountain that in 1957 was in need of costly repair. The neighbourhood association came up with the idea of a neighbourhood art show to help raise funds. Over 50 years later and the St James Court Art Show is now a nationally critically acclaimed fine art show with nearly 750 exhibitors and regularly attracts more than 300,000 attendees over the weekend. This year even the public schools were all closed for the day to encourage pupils and teachers to attend.

Taking place over the first weekend in October, come hail rain or shine, the show takes over a huge proportion of the neighbourhood of Old Louisville. With an increasingly diverse attendance and range of arts and crafts on show and for sale, the show maintains the air of a neighbourhood opening itself up with pride. With local schools and places of worship providing parking and large numbers of volunteers across the complex network of stalls, it is clear that this is a whole community venture. And one they should be proud of.

Leadership Louisville

At the end of last week, I got to meet with Chris Johnson and Holly Prather from the Leadership Louisville Centre. Leadership Louisville aims to provide practical help and tuition to the current and next generation of Louisville's community leaders. Similar to the UK's "Common Purpose", Leadership Louisville takes new and emerging leaders from across sectors to hep them develop their leadership skills together, find their passion and develop their voice.

Leadership Louisville began back in 1979 when a group of forward thinking leaders decided to try and bottle some of what had collectively made them successful. They looked at their skill base, and the opportunities that they had been given and came up with some core competencies and a range of ideas for giving others opportunities for successful leadership development.

To date there have been over 6000 graduates of 4 different leadership programmes, which each cover slightly different aspects. The original "Leadership Louisville" programme, a nine month programme, "Ignite Louisville" a sixth month programme for up and coming leaders, "Focus Louisville" a 2.5 day programme that takes an in-depth look in how the city works from different perspectives, and the "Bingham Fellows" which sets a challenge to experienced leaders to develop innovative solutions to the community's most pressing problems.

A newer programme I was very interested in is the 100 Wise Women of Louisville, a breakfast forum for women to connect with distinguished women leaders to network for career development. Held quarterly the 2 hour breakfast costs $30, with proceeds going to provide bursaries for young women to participate in the leadership programmes. This could be a very potent formula for all kinds of focused leadership development.

What particularly struck me with the Leadership Louisville team was their shared determination at doing better for the city, at really wanting to get to grips with the issues being faced at all levels of organisation in the city, as well as their breadth and depth of connections across the city. I look forward to exploring more of those connections next week.